Skiing in the Italian Alps

Tunnels, Tolls & Easy Driving

 Milan Malpensa airport to Courmayeur was a 130 mile drive. Our GPS didn’t work but we decided to venture on anyway using only the directions we printed out online. In a foreign country with no knowledge of the roads, I would usually not recommend this strategy! But, surprisingly, it was extremely easy and smooth.

Somewhere along the way I lost count, but I’d have to guess that we passed through at least 10 tunnels on the A5 highway to Courmayeur.  From what I’ve read, these weren’t even some of the major tunnels either. Not far from where we stopped in Courmayeur is the Mont Blanc Tunnel, a tunnel built in 1965 with a width of 11.6 kilometers, that crosses under a mountain over 4800 meters high (15,780 feet). 

The roads were well maintained, with clearly marked signs and little traffic. But we soon learned why….the tolls were enormous. It cost us 30 euros (currently $40) one way to get from Milan to Courmayeur.

Life in Courmayeur Village

Quaint and secluded, with a panoramic view of snow-capped mountains everywhere you looked, it was low key and enjoyable for a night out after a full day of skiing.  The first day we fell in love with a small café directly off the main shopping street, represented fittingly by the name “Petit Bistro”.  We ordered a bottle of wine and were seated at one of 4 total tables in the restaurant. A few minutes later, a serving board was presented to us filled with fresh prosciutto, toasted bread, mini pizza samples, and fresh peppers.  Complimentary! When we finished, another wood board appeared containing a similar selection of freshly prepared appetizers.  I was impressed. A sampler platter like this in New York City or London would easily have cost $20 or more.  We visited Petit Bistro twice during our stay in Courmayeur.  The second time we also ordered a crepe filled with prosciutto, mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, and topped with arugula. Mmm! Wonderful experience there.

If you’re looking for a crazy nightlife and bar scene, then Courmayeur village is not for you.  But it met all of my expectations and I enjoyed it for exactly what it was….A romantic, serene village that reminded me I was nowhere close to home. An escape from the busy cities I am used to, with a great selection of cozy bars and restaurants to retreat to, eat and drink, and warm up after a cold day on the slopes.

Skiing is a little different here than in Pennsylvania!

I learned to ski when I was four years old in northern Pennsylvania, near to the hunting cabin that my Pap helped to build in the 1970s with a few of his friends.  We’d visit a few times a year to really get away to the “country”….you may laugh here if you know the town where I grew up, which to many would also seem like the “country”.  Nevertheless, only 20 miles or so from our hunting cabin was Ski Denton, known as the “steepest in the east”, and I always enjoyed skiing there.

However, there were a few differences I noted as compared to Courmayeur and I’ll help you visualize it by providing some simple comparisons:

Vertical Rise – Ski Denton: 650 feet,  Courmayeur: 5080 feet

Ski lifts – Ski Denton: 4, Courmayeur:  20+

Base elevation – Ski Denton: 1850 feet, Courmayeur: 4042 feet

Summit elevation – Ski Denton: 2500 feet,  Courmayeur: 9065 feet

We skied two days, Sunday and Monday.  Upon waking up on Sunday morning, we looked out our hotel window and noticed it had snowed 4 inches overnight.  Couldn’t have been a better way to start our ski vacation.

On Monday, I felt as if we had the entire resort to ourselves.  There were no lines for the lifts and all the trails were wide open and perfectly groomed. Absolutely beautiful and probably was the best skiing of my life up until this point!!

Skiing Breaks

Eating and drinking options at Ski Denton were simple and straightforward.  Upon entering, I’d go to the self service food and drink bar, pick what I wanted (usually a hamburger and fries), pay a ridiculous price for it, and then find a seat at a cafeteria style table that was usually overcrowded with other skiiers.

In Courmayeur, there were a couple of those places that were similar only in that they were self-service. But it didn’t stop there. There were many restaurant options, some fancy with tablecloths and wine glasses already set, some more casual.  They were also in different places. Some were halfway down the mountain, others were off a winding trail on the edge of the resort.  I felt like we were discovering our own private restaurant.  Both days we had amazing food!

At La Fodze restaurant (pictured above), my husband Jim ordered a hearty homemade dish of polenta with fontina cheese and sausage.  We shared wine, bread, chocolate cake and espresso before heading back to the slopes to work off some off those calories.  There is nothing like relaxing for an hour by a fireplace in a secluded restaurant and,  as an added bonus, receiving friendly, warm service after  hours skiing on the cold slopes.

Go to Courmayeur if….

You want to see impressive scenery, be surrounded by overwhelmingly tall mountains, and have warm hospitality from the Italian people.